By ( Marshall Barbarossa )
This article has been published here with the express permission of ( Marshall Barbarossa ).
How to sculpt robes on Space Marines:
Hello there fellow modellers!. I did this because I know many of you would like to know how to do such work with Green Stuff. Well, here goes. Note that this isn't the definitive way on how to sculpt these robes; this is just how I do it.
Step 1 - Tools:
The tools I used:
a. sculpting tool of some sort (actually, I don't know what that is, I just use it to
sculpt) - main tool with which I sculpt... It's the red and white one
b. x-acto knife or hobby knife - to cut straight edges
c. petroleum jelly - lubricant... Its the shiny stuff
d. GS of course - no explanation needed
Step 2 - Preparation: The complete model to be robed and a small amount of GS enough for the front chest... Notice that I took out the skull on the chest as it will get in the way later on if I didn't.. Also, make sure that the model you have is at this stage in the building process; most importantly the legs... If the legs have been repositioned, do the GS ribbing before doing the robes.
The arms (with shoulder pads already) may or may not be glued if using single handed weapons or if the arms won't press against the chest. If you do glue them, use super glue so it would be easy to remove later on. Well talk about why in a little while. If the arms will press against the chest, then you must not clue them yet... Better yet, don't add robes to models with arms pressed against the chest.
the folds as you see fit. I drag the sculpting tool to make the long folds, while the smaller ones I just press the tool into the GS. I drag the tool multiple times to make the "walls" of the fold smooth. I also like to keep the folds a bit sharp and angular to be more akin with GW sculpts
Step 7 - 10 Chest Robes: Next place the upper torso onto the legs. You are now halfway! Flatten and spread the GS with your sculpting tool and blend it with the GS on the model already. Add more folds. If you dont have the arms on, keep the GS out of the area where the arms go on. It's the round raised part on the side if you didn't know. If you have the arms glued, then make sure the GS gets as close to the armpits as possible.
Step 11 - 14 Back Robes: Pretty much the same as steps 7 - 10. If the arms and shoulder pads (those with single handed weapons) haven't been glued yet, dry fit them wth a little petroleum jelly by pressing them in the pose they will be glued in while the GS isn't cured yet to make sure they fit later. With
Step 3 - 6 Chest Robes: Apply the GS evenly on chest. Get an even coverage. It doesn't have to be very smoth yet as it won't matter. You can now add
Modelling Tips: Don't apply too much GS at one time. Be patient and take your time. Drag the tool to blend it with surrounding GS.
Modelling Tip: remember to keep your fingers and tools wet with petroleum jelly throughout the whole process.
When applying robes to a model, do not attach the base so that you would have easier access to the loincloth later on.
Modelling Tips: Use GW models and artwork as rough reference on where to place the folds
bolter wielders, as much as possible don't let them touch the chest. Remove the arms and let the GS cure.
Steps 15 - 18 The Hoods: 15. A bit of flattened GS. When flattening GS, do so on an area which is lubricated well so that it won't stick and thus you will be able to apply to the model. Let the GS cure a bit before moving on. 16. Make it more rectangular. The long side shouldn't be too long;
approximately 3 times the height of the head you are covering... the shorter sides shoud be about 1.5 times the length of the head.. Cut one long side and both short sides so that you have a straight edge. 17. Drape the GS over the head. 18. Rip-off the arms if glued. Tuck in one side of the hood as shown with your sculpting tool...